Fengdu

Today is the last full day on the ship. We docked at night at Fengdu, the "City of Ghosts". This is the number one tourist attraction on the upper reaches of the Yangtze. The temple area on top of Ming Mountain pays tribute to the "King of the Underworld". Ther are many displays portraying interpretations of the Afterlife. You can choose to take a chair lift up to the top of the hill or go up about 350 stairs. Of course Ward and I choose to walk up the stairs. Part way up are three stone bridges. Our guide explained that we must choose one of the three to walk over. The first is the bridge of health, the second, judgment and the third, wealth. The second also had another meaning. If a couple walked over the bridge in 9 steps they would be together forever. Ward and I choose the second bridge. The site is under construction again due to the destruction during the cultural revolution. We haven't spoken to one Chinese individual that hasn't expressed how terrible that time was. The have lost so many ancient treasures.

The Chinese are not very religious. The are extremely superstitious. Near the City of Ghosts sits an unfinished hotel in the shape of a goddess - by the way there is only one goddess. The owner, in his 40s, was killed in an automobile accident. No one will complete the project because they feel there is bad karma there.

In the afternoon we attended a lecture on silk carpets. We have now learned everything we need to know if we ever purchase a rug. Density and number of knots - these are the keys.

Today the kite expert tried to fly one of his kites and Wards. Unfortunately there was very little wind. Too much yesterday, not enough today. Ward has been feeling kind of down since he found out that his kite wasn't the best quality. I told him to go buy another one. Well he bought two and will have them shipped home. One is a dragon, the other a peacock (it is very pretty).

Dinner was a farewell dinner with lots of good food and wine. The captain was introduced once again and the chef. We have very good waiters.

The evening ended with a Karaoke Kontest. I've never seen one, let alone participated. People that can't sing, play handbells! I tried all afternoon to get someone to do it with me but no takers -can't imagine why! Well at the contest we pulled it together and the Avalon women (that's the name of our tour group) got up and sang Bye Bye Love. We weren't half bad! Real teamwork took place tonight!

Tomorrow we leave the ship (I'm ready)and get off at Chongqing.

Shennong Stream

Today we started our day with a trip up Shennong Stream, a tributary of the Yangtze. We transfered to a smaller boat and started up through a very steep picturesque gorge. As we entered the gorge there were acrobats performing on a high wire overhead. Then we were told to look to the cliffs and find a coffin cave. They are not sure how these coffins were placed in the caves but they are about 2000 years old. Many of them are gone now and many more will be covered by the flooding of the gorge. We saw many empty caves and a few with coffins still intact. (John lots of climbing rock!) As we continued up stream we saw a huge cave called swallow cave where, what else, the swallows nest. We saw monkeys playing along the shore. We docked and transfered a sampan to continue up the stream further. The water is extremely clear and the locals directly drink from it. The sampans were guided by local girls and rowed/towed by local men. These men are farmers and work as towers to make money. The towers range in age from 14 - 80. About ten years ago they stopped the practice of towing naked. The women were all disappointed! They rowed us about a 1/2 mile upstream and then when the water got very shallow they got out and pulled us upsteam using rope made of bamboo. Four men pulled from shore while the first and second captain steered the boat from in the water at the front and back. They towed us up through a rapid about 200 yards then we turned and rode the rapids down on the other side of the stream. On the way back they sang some traditional song for us. It was very interesting and fun. As the water rises they have had to move farther up the stream to "find" rapids, which at this point are obviously man made. It seems like a tremendous amount of work but it is the only way for these people to make money.

We returned to the ship and continued to and through the Wu Gorge. This part of the trip took about two hours. It is beatiful scenery but everywhere you look you see abandoned/raised buildings near the water level and brand new buildings above the 176 m mark. By 2009 everything below 176 meters will be underwater!

The BEST part of the whole trip was this afternoon when the kite boy did a presentation and demonstration of Chinese kites. He showed us some of the things to look for in a good kite and how to adjust them to fly correctly. Then we went up on the topdeck and flew a few. It was very windy so there were some that we could not fly, including the one I bought at the silk factory. I did find out that the kite I bought is not a very good one and that I paid too much. Hopefully I will be ably to fly it today if the winds die down.

We sailed through the last of the gorges, the Qutang Gorge before dinner. We passed Dax Village, site of some 74 tombs containing 5000 - 6000 year old archeological finds. Terri unfortunately missed it as first she had a massage, then had her nails done. She also made an appointment for a foot massage for mom. At first mom resisted but she went and the gentleman was able to get the swelling down in her first. She begrudgingly admitted it felt really good.

The evening ended with a Victoria Katarina Cabaret. It was very nice as the staff performed some local dances and there were a few acts from the passengers. At the end they asked folks to join in a circle dance. Terri choose to sit in the front so we participated. Just want everyone to know that I danced during the trip. After the circle dance the evening ended with none other than the macarana!

One final note - congratulations to our nephew Robert that graduated yesterday from high school. At least we think it was yesterday!!

Three Gorges Dam

We left the dock at 5:30 am for the Three Gorges Dam. We reached Gezhouba Dam, the first dam built on the Yangtze River around 6:00 am. We reached Sandouping and went ashore to visit the largest hydroelectricity project in the world, the Three Gorges Dam. It was unbelievable. Ward said it would like damming up the Colorado River and filling up the Grand Canyon. 2/3 of the dam is complete. All told there will be 24 turbines, the largest turbines in the world. Four turbines were provided by Germany, France, GE in Canada and Sweden. The Chinese then took the best of each design and built the rest. There is a series of 5 locks. Four are in operation now, the fifth will be when filling the resevoir is complete. This dam will provide China with 50% of their electricity needs. It is an immense structure. There also is a ship lift for smaller boats. It is not in operation at the moment due to "techinical" problems. They have determined that the size and construction of the cable may not bear the weight without breaking. Over 1.1 million people were displaced as a result of the construction. Not only did the government move the people but trees as well - especially orange trees. As we passed through the western section of the Xiling Gorge you could see the old villages that have been torn down and new buildings built further up the Gorge. I don't know how these folks can walk let along farm on the steep hillsides.

The gorges are beautiful. There is normally a fog that surrounds them. I can see how this area would be talked about as magical and mystical.

The was a captain's welcome reception in the evening and the night wrapped up with the crew modeling a varioety of Chinese traditional costumes, from various regions and eras of China. They were beautiful.

Everone seems to be feeling better! Last night was the first good nights sleep. The key is early to bed early to rise. Things get noisy at about 5:30 every morning.

The Silk Road

We left the hotel at 9:00 to visit a silk factory. The process that they use to produce the silk and find the beginning of the thread is really interesting. The silk worm only lives about 25 days and eats only mulberry leaves. When the cocoons are gathered, the worm inside is killed and they put several cocoons in water and stir it with a stick quickly. The beginning of the thread naturally clings to stick and they've found the beginning. Eight strands are twisted together to produce a thread that is used to create the fabric.

The shop had many articles to sell. Silk everything. I bought a duvet cover - it is beautiful and silk comforter (I think this is my one and only major purchase on the trip). Ward bought a dragon kite - it's pretty neat and several ties, one for John. Paige I bought you a silk scarf. I hope you like it.

The rest of the day was mainly travel. We left the factory to go to Shanghai airport. The morning started a little rough. Mom had a problem with her hip that made it difficult to walk. We ended up getting a wheelchair for her through the airport. She is feeling better now. We're glad that we decided to go with them as they definitely could not have made this trip themselves. We're especially glad that we decided on backpacks (John, mine is working out perfectly, thank you) for us and nothing else as this gave us free hands to help carry their stuff.

We flew for about 1 1/2 hours to reach our boat, the Katerina. There were several other tour groups that joined us. Most everyone was in bed by 10:00, exhausted. Early this morning at 5:30 the boat left for the Three Gorges. We're pretty sure that there won't be any 8 hours of sleep at one time on the entire trip!

Just a small note to anyone reading this---to date TERRI has done all the blogging- supposedly because I type faster - Hah! How did I know this would happen?

Ward asked me to mention that we won't be able to publish any pictures until we reach a hotel that has internet service. Coming soon!

First Full Day in China

We're back in our room after an exhausting day touring Shanghai. We had an very early start. Ward woke up at 2:00 am and couldn't go back to sleep so he played poker online and watch the rest of Mission Impossible 3. Terri woke up at 3:00 and tried to go back to sleep but got up at 6:00 to get ready for breakfast. Hopefully that the last of the jet lag. Breakfast was a feast of mostly western food, omelets, rolls, bacon, ham etc. Little did Terri know that this would be the best meal all day! Our bus picked us up at 8:30. First stop was a children's kindergarten where children ages 3-6 performed on various musical instruments for us: the piano, hammer dulcimer, violin and an oriental violin. They were unbelievable. China pays for their education through the ninth grade. They have to pay tuition after that. The kindergarten we saw was for gifted children. In recent time during China's history parents were permitted to have only one child. Since every child was their one and only parents wanted all their "gifted" children to go to these schools. The school is located in the French Quarter. During the cultural revolution, no one wanted the beautiful buildings due to them not being occupied by Chinese. In an effort to spare the buildings they were given as schools since the children wouldn't "know" that foreigners once occupied them. By the way the decision to mandate only one child has come back to haunt China. There are not enough young workers to support the population as they begin to age.

All throughout Shanghai you see laundry everywhere. Our guide Richard mentioned that while the washing machine has caught on and many people have them, the dryer has not. Shanghai's laundry is sometimes referred to as China's national flag.

Next stop was the Yu Yuan garden. The garden is five acres and originally housed one very wealthy family. Our guide explained that there are always four elements to the gardens in China: water, rock, plants and architecture. Many paths are in zig zags to ward off evil sprits. The structures have very ornate carvings and huge dragons carved atop walls and buildings. Terri had her first interesting experience going to the rest room in the park. Toilet paper is hung outside the stalls, You take what you are going to need then open the stall only to find that you stand to go to the bathroom. Men are used to this, American women are not! Much coordination is needed to pull this off, when you are not used to it. The gardens were lovely. Many of the plants you would recognize from home: boxwood, azalea bushes, flower clover and a type of maple tree to name a few.

Before lunch we stopped at a Buddhist temple. Incense was flowing freely and folks were coming to the temple to pray. Mr. Woo our local guide said that if you have seen one Buddhist temple they are all similar. The unique part of this one was the huge Jade Buddha. I am assuming most temples have smaller Buddha's or copies of original Buddha's. Many of the Buddhist treasures were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution from 1966 - 1976. Unfortunately you are not permitted to take pictures of the Buddha but it is very impressive. A footnote about the Cultural revolution. Mr. Woo said it was a terrible time for the Chinese people. The youth went crazy and torn down and/or burned many of the artifacts from centuries past. He himself was affected and was not allowed to attend school for a year. Most of the teachers were driven out to the countryside to be put to work in the fields. When school did resume he said they didn't learn anything since the text books were replaced by the "Mao bible". With no substantial education for 10 years he is considered a lost generation.

Lunch was at the Seagull hotel down by the river. Many dishes were served and put on a lazy susan to be passed among the folks at the table. It was okay, even our guide mentioned that dinner would be better.

During the afternoon we went to the new Shanghai museum. It was very nice. The have the best bronze collection in the world. Also housed there was a jade collection, furniture from the Ming and Qing? dynasties. There is a striking resemblance between Ming and Arts & Crafts furniture. By this time folks were beginning to get tired.

Dinner was a true Chinese meal, fish heads and all. Neither Terri nor Ward found much to eat although there was lots to choose from. John - you would have been in heaven trying all the different foods. Drinks do not seem to be a priority with the Chinese. With a meal you get two small glasses of soft drink or beer and that's it! Terri almost created a international incident when she asked for a second glass of Coke. Apparently the non-English speaking waitress' thought she already had 2. We had met our quota and that was that. Richard offered to pay for another Coke but they didn't seem to understand that. In the end Mr Woo intervened and Terri got some more to drink.

The evening ended with an acrobatic show at the Grand Theatre. It was very good - what parts Ward saw of it! Terri went to say something to him and he had eyes closed and head down. Still can't beat Bob Holders ability to sleep during a performance of Blue Man group with screaming eighth graders and beating drums. This performance was a little bit more subdued.

On our way back to the hotel we went through the Bund district which was lit up for the night. It was breathtaking. People say it is one of the most beautiful cities in the world at night.

We're here!

Well, we're here. We left the Four Points Sheraton at 3:30 AM on Sunday, the 5th and arrived at our hotel, The St. Regis on Monday, June 5th around 7:15 pm. That would be 7:15 am at home on Monday, the 6th. It's all very confusing keeping the days and times straight. Our connections went very smoothly. The longest leg of course was from San Francisco to China. The flight was 11 hours, 55 minutes. It was pretty long and dad was about the only one that got any sleep.

Shanghai is the second largest city in China, 19 million people. The area we are in is very modern. Only 10 years ago all of the surrounding countryside was rice fields. The billboards are huge and very glitzy. The skyscrapers are all new and extremely modern. Most signs are in Chinese and English. There isn't a lot of traffic on the roads at this time of night. Bicycles are plentiful. The room at the hotel is beautiful and we are ready to shower and try to catch up on our sleep.

The tour director, Richard says we have a full day tomorrow. We leave at 8:30 and don't get back until 10:00 pm. On the agenda is a temple, welcome dinner, acrobats and more fun stuff!

Goodnight from China, the journey - Day1!!